Missing IIS log files in Azure Cloud Service

I recently upgraded a Azure Cloud Service from the 2.3 SDK to the 2.5 SDK. I keep the IIS log files for analysis but after the upgrade I noticed that I stopped getting the files uploaded to the storage account.

Digging around I found this was an issue with the Azure 2.5 SDK and that the workaround is to modify the OnStart method in your WebRole.cs file. This requires a restart of your app before you’ll start seeing the IIS log files copied over to your storage account.

One thing that I didn’t expect is that the Azure Diagnostics only copied newer files. I guess this makes sense, so I went digging around for a way to copy the older files to the storage account.

Here’s what I came up with.

Connect via Remote Desktop to the Web Role in Server Explorer.

Open a Poweshell prompt and download AzCopy.

PS> invoke-webrequest http://aka.ms/downloadazcopy -OutFile AzCopy.msi

Run the AzCopy.msi installer and open the Microsoft Azure Storage Command Line. This opens a command window with the path to the azcopy executable already in the path.

Now before I could go further I wanted to place the log files in the same directory structure that Azure Diagnostics already supports. Querying the storage account I see they are located in the following location:


But where are the files located on the Azure Cloud virtual machine? Digging around I see that the log files are stored at the location

c:\Resource\Directory\<deployment_id>.<site_name>.DiagnosticStore\Web directory.

To make this easier to see on the command line, I created a configuration file with all the arguments I needed to pass to AzCopy. Here’s my configuration file (excluding private information)

/DestKey:<storage account key>

Knowing this I could now use AzCopy to copy the old IIS log files up to the storage account using the following AzCopy command.

AzCopy /@:copyfiles.cfg

After AzCopy was done copying the files, I repeated the same operations on the other nodes in the Azure Cloud Service and verified the files were there by using the BlobTransferUtility, that I use to copy the files locally.

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Finished the sandblast cabinet

Since last time I’ve posted, I’ve finished the sandblast cabinet. Here’s how it looks when it’s done.



How I got here from my last post was once I built the basic shell, I lifted the hopper inside the cabinet and attached it.

Sandblast Cabinet 034 Sandblast Cabinet 035

Before moving on to cutting out the openings for the glass and holes for my arms.

Sandblast Cabinet 036

I made some tabs on the door sides which would give the door clamps something to pull against.

Sandblast Cabinet 039


After this came some metal prep



and getting a coat of primer before winter set in and shut me down.



While I couldn’t paint during winter, I was able to make some progress. Using a hole punch, I created the openings for the electrical boxes for the lights.

WP_20130106_007 WP_20130106_008 WP_20130106_009


That’s it for the sandblast cabinet. I’m off to my next tool, a Coldsaw Station because I’m tired of cutting steel on the floor.

Here’s a rough idea of what it’ll look like.



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How to make the hopper

A visitor asked how I made the hopper. I was going to reply as a comment, but figured I’d write a full post to show how I made it.

The easy way is to use SketchUp. I’ll use the dimensions Tom is asking about for his hopper. 40″ x 24″.

First, draw a rectangle in SketchUp that is 40″ wide by 24″ deep.


Next, use the Push/Pull Tool to give it some height. This is what we don’t know yet, so let’s just use 24″.


Pan to the underside of our newly created 40″ x 24″ x 24″ box, since the trap door is on the bottom.


Next, use the Tape Measure tool to draw some guide lines. Make sure it’s in Guide mode by having the + sign in the cursor. Use the Ctrl key to toggle the tool mode. Now, click on the green axis line and let’s place a guideline at 20″, half the width of the box. Draw a horizontal guide using the red axis and place it at 12″. You can use one of the edges and let the tool select the midpoint of the line.


There may be an easier way to do this, but this works for me.

Using the Tape Tool, create horizontal guidelines that are offset from the horizontal mid-line by 2″, and 1.5″ offset for the depth mid-line. It should look like this.


Put the model in Wireframe mode, and draw lines from the 3 x 4 rectangle to the 40 x 24 rectangle at the top. In my picture I drew two of the lines to the wrong corners. It’s easy to see this mistake when you start deleting lines. Just undo in SketchUp to correct any mistakes you make.


Using the Eraser Tool, erase the 40 x 24 rectangle on the bottom. Be sure to take it out of Wireframe mode when you’re done.


OK, this gives us our plenum, but how tall should it be. If we imagine a right triangle that starts at the center point of the 40″ side, travels along the top face of the plenum, and stops at 10″ back, which is 1/2 the depth of the plenum, less 1/2 the depth of the bottom face. Then the triangle takes a right angle and travels vertically down, it will arrive at the midpoint of the front edge of the bottom face. The hypotenuse of this triangle would be the height of the 40 x 3 trapezoid shape. In case my explanation doesn’t make sense, I’ve drawn it out.


Now that we’ve drawn this triangle, we can ask SketchUp to give us the height of this 40 x 3 trapezoid shape. Comes out to 26″. But how do we know this is enough or not? TP Tools also sells a pickup tube, or you can make your own. In my case, I measured the length of their pickup tube, added some extra for good measure to arrive at the length. I don’t remember how long I made mine, but let’s say in this example, that we want this hypotenuse to be 30″.


Using a2 + b2 = c2 (a squared + b squared = c squared), we know the hypotenuse we want, 30″, we know one side, which is 10″. So how tall would this plenum be to make this work out. Solving for B gives us b2 = c2 – a2, or b2 = (30 * 30) – (10 * 10), or b2 = 900 – 100, or b2 = 800. Taking the square root of 800, gives us 28.28″.

Knowing this, we can now solve for the side. The triangles top edge is (40 / 2) – (3 / 2), or 20 – 1.5 or 18.5″. The height will still be the same, 28.8, so now we know a and b, this gives us a2 + b2 = c2, or (18.5 * 18.5) + (28.8 * 28.8) = c2, 342 + 829.44 = c2, or 34.22″.

Now that I have my dimensions, I can draw them in SketchUp. Select the face that is 40 x 3, right click and choose Select -> Bounding Edges. We’ll make a copy of this face using the Move tool in Add mode (Ctrl key) and drag it to the Origin.


Using the Rotate Tool, rotate this face to lie flat on the earth plane. We need to rotate around the red axis, so make sure the Rotate tool is in the right orientation.


Once rotated, it should be lying on the earth plane. This is the starting shape of the front side of the hopper. But we need to make it easy to mount inside the cabinet, and we need an way to mount the trap door and we need to have the sides edges line up with the other pieces. So let’s create some flanges (not sure if that’s the right word).

I’ll use a 1.5″ flange on top, a 1″ flange on the sides, and a 1″ flange on the bottom which we’ll mount the trap door to.

After drawing some guidelines and drawing some lines, this is what you end up with.


If we bent this shape using a sheet metal brake, this is how the shape would look.


After all this, it might be easier to take your steel to a local HVAC company and tell them you want a plenum that is 40 x 24 that reduces to 3 x 4, has a 1.5″ flange on top, a 1″ flange on bottom with the 40″ side having a length of 28.8″, or round up to 29″.

How I mounted the trap door, was once I had the 3 x 4 opening with a 1″ flange, it fit inside the plastic part from TP Tools. I then drilled some holes through the plastic and steel and use cap screws or rivets to attach the trap door to the steel hopper.

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Building the sand blast cabinet

Once the hopper was done (I can’t say that without thinking of the Dish Network commercial) I moved on to building the sand blast cabinet.

The cabinet will measure 5′ wide x 6′ high x 30″ deep. Back in February I picked up 16ga sheet that I cut out the panels from. I struggled with how I was going to build the cabinet until I came across the idea of building some scaffolding. It’s not an original idea, it’s just how I chose to put it together.

It started with building a wooden framework that I could clamp the 16ga panels to. In this photo I’ve placed the door frames against the scaffolding to make sure I had the dimensions correct.

Then I began to hang the sheets of metal. There are the rear panel, top, window, front panel, two side panels and two legs. Here’s a picture showing everything but the side panels and the legs tacked together.

I created another framework to support the hopper while I moved it into position inside the cabinet.

Next step was to build the legs. If I was to do this all over again I would make the legs and the front panel from a single piece and cut out the front opening. It started with laying out the 16ga sheet, using a straight edge and the plasma cutter and cutting out a piece.

Then once I have a piece that is the correct overall dimensions, I need to reduce it down by cutting the angle for the legs. The legs are about 2′ tall with a taper from 20″ at the top to around 8″ at the floor. This is around a 60 degree angle. So using a straight edge and the plasma cutter

I end up with this shape

and using a set of butt joint clamps, I can clamp it to the rest of the cabinet.

The side panels were cut out and drilled that I’ll use to weld the leg panels to the inside of the door frame.

In this picture I’ve clamped the side panels to the door frame prior to welding.

Here’s it’s all roughly welded together before inserting the hopper.

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Sand blast cabinet – hopper

I didn’t get any pictures, or if I did, I can’t find them, but after building the work support out of 1.5″ x 1.5″ x 11ga angle iron that measures 58″ x 34″  this will give me plenty of space to clean a fender and possibly a bumper.

I started with cutting out the hopper out of 18ga sheet which I then clamped to the work support frame.

I was going to use a spring loaded trap door at the bottom of the hopper to allow me to drain it and replace the media when necessary. The trap door I’m using came from TP Tools, so I made a spacer out of some steel I had laying around and clamped it in the hopper. 

I kept cutting out the 18ga sheet to make the other two sides and ended up with a decent funnel shape. When I was in high school I worked at a HVAC company where I made plenums. I sure wish I had the sheet metal brake and spot welder that I used in that shop. I then proceeded to tack weld it together.

After everything was together I moved on to fully welding the joint and grinding it smooth.

I double-checked that the trap door would fit the hopper.

When this was done, I turned it over and added seam filler to the joints. The idea is to make a box that is air tight enough that the vacuum will draw air through the inlet and not all over the place. I don’t want it leaking like a sieve. It’s not a good picture but it’s all I have from this step.


Long lost summer

It’s been a long time I last updated.

When I last posted I was lining up where the front cross-member and the brackets for the 1985 Corvette suspension. On the chassis table I need to build what I’m calling “stations”. These are locations along the length of the frame where specific attachments would be bolted to the frame. These attachments are things like the front & rear bumpers, running board brackets. These stations help locate the frame on the chassis table and keep everything lined up, in addition to building additional stations to help locate the front cross member and the brackets to mount the independent rear suspension of the ’85 Corvette.

I was working on building the stations for the front and rear running board brackets. The flat bar has this hard layer to keep the steel from rusting. It’s a pain to remove and even with 40 grid flapper disk, it takes a lot of effort to remove. I also noticed that the suspension brackets were developing some surface rust. I wanted a sand blast cabinet.

I went online to TP Tools and really liked their cabinets, but after starting with the basic model and upgrading to the next one “because it’s only a few hundred more”, when I was done I was looking at a $3500 cabinet. Years ago my dad built one out of 18ga but I gave it to my dad’s lifelong friend when he passed away. Because I’m my fathers’ son, I decided that I’d build my own.

Off to Discount Steel to pick up some 16ga for the main body, 18ga for the hopper, 11ga for the doors and 1.5″ x 1.5″ x 11ga angle iron to build the work support framework.

I started off with trying to build the hopper with the 18ga sheet. It was easy enough to cut out with the nibbler but then I tried to bend it. I thought I could just clamp it and bend it over. This didn’t work, so then out came the body hammer and I tried to bend a 1″ flap over 24″. This turned into an absolute mess. I just wasn’t happy with the results.

After looking online for a sheet metal brake that could bend 16ga sheet over 5′ long I came up with the brain-dead idea that I could build my own sheet metal brake.

After screwing around with this idea for a month I was severely unmotivated and was stuck like this for several months. I didn’t get back to the shop until August.

Over the next few posts I’ll describe the progress I’ve made with the sand blast cabinet.



2nd Frame Rail

This past weekend I was able to complete the 2nd frame rail. While I was not looking forward to trying to pick the old frame off the chassis jig by hand, my brother stopped by and helped me out. We pulled the old frame off the chassis table and put up the new frame rails.

Next up, I need to build some cross pieces for the chassis table to locate and hold the frame in place. This will allow me to weld the frame crossmembers to the frame.

Here’s some pictures of the progress.

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